The Tangible Past

Folly Arch, North Mymms

2011-07-31T15:45:00.010+01:00

I don’t like follies much. They feel contrived and charmless. But this does not necessarily mean they aren’t interesting. Folly Arch is a curious structure which I felt needed some explanation.

Folly Arch is all that remains of Gobions Estate, an ancient pile dating back to the twelfth century. The manor house had associations with the More family (Sir Thomas) and was thus known as More Hall during the sixteenth century. Connections to the Gybynnes family saw the house go through various different spellings of the name until finally arriving at ‘Gobions’ in the early-mid nineteenth century.

The man responsible for the arch, Sir Jeremy Sambrooke, bought the estate in 1707. He is thought to have erected the folly in 1740 after inheriting the baronetcy from his recently deceased nephew. It is an early example of gothic revival and is thus listed as being of ‘important landscape value’ by English Heritage.

Although my thoughts on follies have been expressed above, the novelty value is indeed there and makes for quite a striking and welcome scene after having driven through the banality of Colony Heath and North Mymms. For this alone we must thank Sir Jeremy.

Reading reports online suggests that the arch may have been in threat of collapsing at the turn of the 21^st century due to large cracks appearing on the archway itself. Bracing seemed to have been erected at the time (rather unsympathetically I might add) but I am pleased to report that there is only minimal bracing currently and the cracks appear to have been filled.

Location – The junction between Hawkshead Road and Swanley Bar Lane – just south of Gobions Wood.

Sources

- http://www.brookmans.com/environment/gobions/ch1.shtml

- http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-158526-the-folly-arch-north-mymms

Photographs taken on 31st July 2011

Church of St. Etheldreda, Graveley

2011-07-27T16:10:00.017+01:00

The church of St. Etheldreda is a curious building. Set in what appears to be someone’s garden it is the only remains of the medieval village of Chesfield which in 1445 was merged with the parish of Graveley. The license for demolition was granted by the Bishop of Licoln in 1750.

Documentary evidence makes reference to a chapel at Chesfield Manor, 1216 which suggests an earlier church stood before the contemporary one. The current church ruins are thought to be of the 13^th or early 14^th century. They consist of a rectangular nave and chancel coupled with a later small chapel in the south-east corner. The walls are constructed of flint and are reported to still contain elements of original plaster work.

The location of the church makes it rather difficult to have a look around. Two fences obstruct the way: it appeared the ruins lie on private ground. Climbing over one fence allows one to gain a closer look but I cannot say that this is recommended. Directions are as follows:

Take the B197 from Stevenage to Graveley, turn right at the garage into Church Lane and follow this for about 1¼ miles to the church.

The site is on the north side of the road near Chesfield Park. Grid Reference TL 2474 2792.

Sources

- http://www.hertsdirect.org/services/leisculture/heritage1/archaeology/moreaboutarch/archsites/chesfield/

- http://risk.english-heritage.org.uk/2010.aspx?id=860&rt=1&pn=8&st=a&ctype=all&crit=church

- http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43586

- http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-162616-church-of-st-etheldrada-graveley

- http://www.francisfrith.com/stevenage/photos/the-ruins-of-st-etheldredas-church-chesfield-1899_44280/

The nave.

South-east chapel.

Looking west through the ruined nave.

View from the road.

Photograph of the ruins in 1899 over run with ivy. (Part of the Francis Firth collection - link provided in 'sources' above)

Photographs taken 2nd July 2011.

St. Albans Clock Tower, Hertfordshire

2010-08-22T17:23:00.085+01:00

Standing proud on Market Cross is the Clock Tower of St. Albans. It provides a superb insight and brief encapsulation into medieval times and is said to be an almost unique building of its type in England.

A Defiant Construction

The Peasant’s Revolt of 1381 was a rebellion against the feudal system: a system which tied the peasantry to their masters by way of debt. Discontentment rose and rioting began but ultimately ended in failure with the execution of the rebellion’s leader, Wat Tyler, in London. This failure to induce solid change is thought to have spawned the construction of the Clock Tower as a defiant act towards the powerful Abbey next door. Construction is thought to have begun by Thomas Wolvey, the royal mason, in around 1403-1412 using infilled flint, brick and stone to build the 65ft, five storied tower which we see today.

The original bell which was fitted was in fact older than the Tower itself having been cast in 1335. The bell ‘is inscribed ‘Missi de coelis habeo nomen Gabrielis’ which translates to ‘I carry the heaven-sent name of Gabriel’. This suggests that the bell may have been given by the Abbey and shows a certain truce between church and citizen. A newer bell was cast and fitted in 1729.

The Tower played an important part in the daily life of the citizens of St. Albans. It managed the market hours and was rung at 4am and 8pm to mark the start and end of the trading day. It was also rung to indicate the curfew time and historically as an alarm to notify the citizens of a surprise attack by the Yorkists in the War of the Roses.

Near Demolition and War

By 1700 the Tower was in a bad way and was in danger of being demolished but was fortunately spared and restored. It had a varied history from then on having been used fleetingly as a post office and then later during the Napoleonic Wars as part of a semaphore line. This consisted of a twenty feet high timber shutter and a small signaller’s hut which were erected on the top of the tower to deliver messages across the country to warn of any oncoming enemy. During peace time the shutter was taken down but the hut remained for the next four decades.

Repair work, lead by Gilbert Scott, continued in 1865 at the cost of £800. Part of this consisted of an automatic system to light the Tower using ‘incandescent gas’. Further improvements were made in 1971. The old lean-to sheds were removed from the base of the Tower which opened up the cobbled area to be used as a public meeting/sitting spot.

Ascending

Entering the Tower through a small wooden door the side takes one into the shop. This and the first floor were let together in 1900. Climbing to the second floor reveals where the clock keeper’s living area was which would have been in use from 1412 – 1866. The third floor contains the Victorian clock which was designed Lord Grimthorpe in 1866. Interestingly, this same gentleman designed the mechanism for Big Ben in London. Continuing up will take one passed the original bell in the fourth floor and then further up onto the top of the Tower itself. Great views of St. Albans Abbey along with the surrounding town and countryside are available.

The Tower is open Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays from Easter to October 10.30am – 5.00pm and costs a £1 to enter for adults and concessions for children.

Sources

- St Albans: A History and Celebration of the City - Tom Doig - 2004 - ISBN: ISBN 1-90493845-0.
- A History of St Albans (History of) – James Corbett – 2006

Panorama looking towards Dunstable Downs from the top of the Tower.

Looking down at the Market Place.

Photographs taken 23rd August 2010

St. Lawrence Church, Ayot St. Lawrence

2010-06-17T12:45:00.030+01:00

St. Lawrence Church, located in the small village of Ayot St. Lawrence is a picturesque, dilapidated ruin set in the west of the village. Built of flint with stone dressings to compliment, the church is in a dishevelled state which although sad to see, does make for an idyllic scene.

Discerning the Remnants

The original church is thought to have consisted of a chancel and nave built c. 1150. The 13^th century saw the north aisle constructed, part of the ‘early English’ remodeling of the church during the period. A century later bore witness to the building of the north chapel or ‘patrons chapel’. The nave was partly rebuilt and the chancel built and extended using the existing foundations. The 15^th century saw the north aisle extended and embattled tower built towards the end of the 15^th/early 16^th century. It is made of three stages and is still roofed. The north-west corner of the tower contains a tomb-chest sporting badly damaged effigies of a knight and lady of the early 15^th century. The octagonal font present is also in a bad way. Repair work is evident, with buttresses and filler works helping to maintain what is left of the roofless church.

A Room without a View

How did such a church become so dilapidated? The answer lies in nearby Ayot Manor whose once owner Sir Lionel Lyde, a tobacco merchant from Bristol, felt St. Lawrence was a blemish on the landscape adjacent to his new Georgian redbrick mansion built in 1775. To rid himself of such blight he arranged for the church to be pulled down. The Bishop of Lincoln, whose diocese encompassed the area in which the church stood, managed to halt proceedings. The church was never rebuilt and so lies as a romantic ruin to this day. Sir. Lionel built a new neo-classical church on the grounds of his house to replace St. Lawrence. A picture of this is below.

Paying a Visit

The church is open most of the year round. Even if the gate is locked an excellent view is still provided.

Sources

- http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43580

- Hertfordshire - N Pevsner - Yale University Press; 2nd New edition of Revised edition edition (1 Jan 1963) - ISBN 0300096119

The church facing north-west.

Main entrance. Contains small amounts of 12th-century masonry.

14th-century arch which leads from the chapel into the chancel is evident on the right. 15th-century nave window to the left.

Looking throught the nave and into where the now destroyed chancel would have been. 13th-century arch connecting the north aisle to the chapel visible on the left.

Early 15th-century tomb and effergies of a knight and lady.

Showing the tomb-chest's detail.

Damaged octagonal font.

Filled in staircase presumably leading to the tower.

Neo-Classical church built by Sir Lionel Clyde to replace St. Lawrence Church.

Pictures taken 16th June 2010.

Houghton House, Bedfordshire

2008-11-04T14:37:00.029Z

Houghton House is an elaborate 17^th century hunting lodge, the extensive remains of which are visible today. The site boasts two Italianate loggias and picturesque views over the countryside.

Ownership

The house was built in the 17^th century and was thought to have been designed by the architect John Thorpe. It was commissioned by Mary Herbert, Countess of Pembroke, who had close ties to the royal court. Such ties are evident by King James I granting her the piece of land on which the house was built. Work finished in 1621, a year which saw King James I visit Houghton.

Mary’s death of smallpox on 25^th September the same year saw the house passed to Thomas Bruce, 1st Earl of Elgin in 1624. The house remained in possession of the Bruce family until the 3^rd Earl retired to exile overseas in 1696 on account of his loyalty to the Stuarts and James II of England.

Houghton was sold to John Russell, 4^th Duke of Bedford. His sons however predeceased him, and so the house was passed to his grandson Francis Russell. He was unable to let the house without the park, so in 1794 the 5^th Duke of Bedford ordered the house to be stripped of its furnishings and dismantled. The roof was removed and the some of the furnishings used elsewhere (the staircase survives in The Swan Hotel, Bedford). The duke never married and thus never produced an heir. He died in 1802 leaving the house open to the elements and able to fall into a ruinous state.

Living at Houghton

After Mary’s death, the house fell into the hands of many different characters who adapted the house to fit their needs. Some of these changes are listed below.

The arrival of the Bruce family after the death of Mary ushered in a life of country relaxation rather than one of full time hunting. This change saw the hunting staircases in the corner turrets being replaced by a grand staircase, inserted in the Stone Hall. The staircase was made of elaborately carved wood, complemented by decorative plasterwork which is still evident today in the ruins. As mentioned above, this staircase is still visible today at The Swan Hotel in Bedford.

The Great Hall was the largest space in the house and was accessed from the main entrance of the house. It would have been used for dining on special occasions and must have been an impressive sight for an arriving visitor. The hall was eventually partitioned to create a private dining room for the family.

Above the Great Hall was the Great Chamber which was used for private dining and as reception rooms. Whilst owned by the Marquess of Tavistock 1764 -1767 the space was converted into a library.

A Country Visit

The setting of the house is magnificent and one can fully appreciate why the location was chosen to build such a place. The high aspect allows for views seemingly stretching for miles and the most relaxed rural tranquility. This was somewhat marred by a family with children screaming and shouting, so I suggest a visit during school time. The ruins are the most intact and largest I’ve blogged about and are very impressive. The splendid south face of the house emerges from the tree-lined path as one makes one’s way through the entrance porch and into where the old Great Hall was. Fireplaces and doorways are evident on both stories, as are the complex interweaving flumes leading to the chimney which are of interest. Heading directly north leads through a neo-classical loggia and down some stairs onto the garden which is now just grass. It allows the visitor to take in the full splendor and size of the building. Walking around to the west face reveals another loggia with Mary Herbert’s coat of arms embossed above. The ruins are some of the best I’ve visited, both for the magnificent views and the sheer scale of what is left to see.

The ruins are located North East of Ampthill off the A421 / 8 miles south of Bedford. There is sufficient sign posting to be able to navigate to the ruins without a problem.

Sources:

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.11995

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houghton_House

View of the house from the path leading round onto the driveway.

Front porch entrance.

North face showing one of two neo-classical loggias.

Wider shot showing the north face.

West face showing the second loggia.

The western loggia.

The western loggia II.

'Mary Herbert's personal emblems were carved in the freize of the loggia. The bear and staff was the emblem of the Dudleys, her mother's family; the lion represents her father's family, the Sidneys. Mary combined her initals M and H, with the arrow head emblem of her father's family to create her own arms'

An idea of how magnificent the view is.

Looking up the driveway.

Pictures taken 21st September 2008.

Hertford Castle, Hertfordshire

2008-11-03T16:57:00.006Z

The original castle is now little more than a pleasant park, surrounded partly by a flint and stone curtain wall and overlooked by the more recently built Grade I listed gatehouse which lies on the site of an old Norman Castle.

History

By 1066 the small fortified site built by Edward the Elder in 911 had now evolved into a full scale motte and bailey castle. After William the Conqueror’s victory at the battle of Hastings he acquired the castle and passed it to his follower and Sherriff of Herefordshire, Peter de Valoignes. Work commenced on fortifying the site as a stronghold for the nobility as a means of protection from their hostile new subjects.

Henry II’s ascension saw his clamping down on the unruly barons of the land and thus he built castles all over England. Improvements to Hertford accompanied this. Such examples can be found in the form of the stone and flint wall visible today 1170 – 1174, along with drawbridges and gatehouses. These improvements were ready to be put to the test as by 1216 King Louis landed on English soil ready to claim the throne from the new King, Henry III. This saw the castle besieged for a month until the Governor, Walter de Godarvil, was forced to surrender to the French soldiers. However by 1217, English opinion turned and favoured Henry III, forcing the French forces out of the country.

1309 saw the first political prisoners being held in the castle - the recently disgraced and disbanded, Knights of the Templar. There are said to be many hidden Templar tunnels winding their way under the town of Hertford, linking houses and even the castle itself but are now long sealed off.

The next notable period in the castle’s history is during the reign of Edward III who spent much of his time in the castle, having it surveyed and valued in 1332. Then in 1337 war with France broke out, The Hundred Years War, which saw detainees of noble or royal rank being held at the castle. King David II of Scotland was held there as one of its first prisoners, as was King John of France briefly in April 1359. The castle was then handed to Edward’s third son, John of Gaunt, who carried out much needed repairs on the castle’s defences.

The castle passed through the hands of Richard II, Richard III, Henry IV, Henry V with the young heir Henry VI spending most of his early life there. Henry VII spent little time in the castle. His son however, Henry VIII, upon inheriting it, spent a sizeable sum of money transforming the castle into a palace. Most notably repairing the gatehouse, originally built by Edward IV and still standing today.

Elizabeth I 1558 – 1601 was a regular visitor to Hertford, granting the town powers to pass bye-laws. During the plague the law courts and possibly even parliament was transferred to Hertford. This, coupled with other individuals escaping the plague, resulted in the town’s population swelling dramatically.

The death of Elizabeth saw James I, the first Stuart King, crowned monarch. He knew little about English tradition and thus had little interest in maintaining it's heritage. The castle ceased to be a place of royal residence and fell into disrepute. However, during Charles I’s reign 1625-49 he granted the castle to William Cecil, second Earl of Salisbury, who in turn leased it to Sir William Harrington of Hertingfordbury Park. He made repairs to the buildings and began restoring them to their former state.

The castle remained in the hands of the Cecil family who leased it to various individuals. Improvements were made over the next 400 years. A South Wing was added to the gatehouse in 1790, a new gateway and lodge in 1800 was erected, and finally the north wing was built during the 1930s. The end of the 20^th century saw the castle being generously given to Hertford by the Earl of the county.

The main attraction of the castle is the large gatehouse which was hosting a wedding when I visited. The grounds are very pleasant and are surrounded by the original flint and stone curtain wall which is of interest. The site also contains a large stone marking the position where the first General Synod in 673 AD was held. Walking through the grounds will lead one to the River Lea, running down past a mound which used to be the motte (the picture of which is below). On a fine day, Hertford Castle is well worthy of a visit, if not just to sample the pleasant grounds.

To get to the castle do the following:

By Car, from the A10: take Hertford exit, at next roundabout take exit to Hertford Town Centre. At next roundabout take 2nd exit to Town Centre, at next roundabout take 1st exit. At next roundabout take 3rd exit towards Bengeo. Take immediate turning on left, Castle Street, follow road round and into Castle grounds.
By Car, from the A414 (A1/M1): as you enter Hertford, go over roundabout and under railway bridge. At next roundabout take 2nd exit straight on. At next roundabout take 1st exit then left into Castle Street, follow road round and into Castle grounds.
Parking: St Andrew Street or Gascoyne Way (A414). Both within easy walking distance of Hertford Castle.
By Train: To Hertford East or Hertford North. Make for Castle Hall, The Wash, Hertford then walk through.

Sources:

http://www.hertford.gov.uk/

http://www.hertford.net/history/castle/

The Motte.

The stone marking where the first General Synod was held.

More pictures in the pipe line.

Pictures taken 20th September 2008.

Sopwell Priory, St. Albans

2008-10-19T21:19:00.023+01:00

Although labeled as a nunnery, the remaining stonework is in fact that of a manor house partly built in the 16^th century by Richard Lee; a soldier and royal engineer to Henry VIII. The original structure built on the site was a priory named ‘Sopwell’, dating from 1140.

The Early Priory

The priory’s story starts with two holy women living life as hermits next to the River Ver in 1140. They built shelter from branches of trees and wattles by winding them together and covering them with bark. Geoffrey de Gorham, Abbot of St Albans, was impressed with the saintly women’s acts and thus founded Sopwell Priory in their honour. The name ‘Sopwell’ was given to the land where the women lived: it’s origin coming from the act of ‘sopping’ or ‘dipping’ bread into the nearby Holy Well which the women would then offer to pilgrims journeying to St Albans Abbey. After the priory had been built Geoffrey made clear that the number of nuns living at Sopwell should not exceed thirteen, this signified Jesus and his twelve apostles together as one. He also insisted that the nuns be ‘locked up at night’ to ensure their safety and adhere to the strict rules of solitude. He died in 1146 having served 36 years as the abbot.

Troubles at Sopwell

During 1330 a dispute arose between the then 28^th Abbot of St Albans, Richard de Wallingford and the nuns at Sopwell. The nuns were allegedly growing tired of their constant dependency on the Abbey and thus felt they deserved a greater influence within the election of the new prioress after the death of the previous one, Phillipa. Abbot Richard consulted with his prior, Nicholas de Flamsteade and both decided to quash the ‘rebellion’. Prior Nicholas asked each nun who they wanted elected. Sixteen nuns favoured Alice de Hakeney while only three favoured the sub-prioress Alice de Pekesdene. Disregarding the sister’s opinion, Prior Nicholas appointed Alice de Pekesdene which highlights how little influence the nuns had in matters regarding the nunnery.

Further restrictions were introduced by Abbot Michael de Michael regarding the conduct of the nuns. Any nun found being disobedient to the Prioress would be put on bread and water. No one except a nun could occupy the dormitory at night and after the afternoon meal and all nuns must go out to work. These were put in place to ensure proper conduct as the Abbot had stated that he was not happy that some of the original virtues of the founding nuns were being forgotten. The next Abbot, Thomas de la Mare, clamped down on further troubles at the priory by building a house for the Warden of Sopwell and giving him instructions that ‘no man, secular or religious, could ever enter the Priory without the Abbot’s permission’. Life for the nuns appears restricted and regimented with their having little influence in the politics of the priory.

Life in there didn’t improve. For the next 150 years it experienced financial difficulties and by the time of the Dissolution in Henry VIII’s reign there were only five nuns inhabiting it. It gradually fell into disrepute where Richard Lee is introduced to the story.

Lee Hall

After serving with the Army of Calais, King Henry VIII rewarded him and his recently married wife, Margaret Grenfield, with full ownership of the building and property of Sopwell Priory. Lee continued to serve in Calais, outlining defences and subsequently being appointed Surveyor of the King’s Works. Upon his return to England he was given the grounds and buildings of St. Albans monastery and other former Abbey properties, such as Hexton Manor and Newland Manor. During the next decade Lee acquired more property in the centre of St. Albans and thus became one of the wealthiest men in the town.

1549 saw alterations started on Sopwell Priory to make it comfortable for him and his family to live in. He followed the outlines of the original building whilst taking brick and flint from the Abbey monastery to adapt and extend his new home, named ‘Lee Hall’. In 1555 his wife died leaving him to bring up his two daughters alone for the next 20 years. Upon the marriage of them both Lee set about rebuilding the hall using new foundations and so placing it in roughly the same location. It was built in the shape of an H with two courtyards and a two story-hall. The remains visible today are that of this new building.

Sir Richard died on April 25^th 1575 and is buried in St. Peter’s Church. The house passed through the hands of his descendants for the next 100 years until it was sold to Sir Harbottle Grimston in 1669. He used the house as a quarry for renovations to his nearby favoured house, Gorhambury, and thus the Sopwell fell into a ruinous state, the evidence of which one can see today.

Connections to Boleyn

Rumours have it that Anne Boleyn, the ill fated second wife of Henry VIII, visited Sopwell Priory or was even married there. It is said that Anne was sent to Sopwell to keep her away from court as tensions between her and Catherine of Aragon where high. The priory offered safety and was close enough for Henry VIII to visit which he is reputed to have done in secret. Often this would take place under the cedar tree near St. Stephen’s Church: a location which the King allegedly proposed to Anne. They were married on 25^th January 1533.

A Visit to Sopwell

The front wall of the house is evident when one arrives at the site. The circular window above a previous inside entrance is most obvious. The eye is then drawn to both walls radiating out both north and south. Walking through the entrance leads into the former central hall. Walking south-east from here then reveals the previous position of a staircase, hidden amongst foliage. One gets a real sense of scale when walking around the grounds, bumping into masonry many feet away from the main walls which are still intact. There is an information board on the pavement opposite but I found it rather inadequate to fully understand the ruins.

Getting to the ruins is very easy. They are located just off Cottonmill Lane, St. Albans with parking available on the lane itself.

Sources:

Donald Pelletier – Mysterious Ruins: The Story Of Sopwell Priory St Albans – Impress Print, Corby, Northamptonshire 2002 – ISBN 1 903747 17 1

Inside entrance, leading from a corridor to the central hall.

Looking from inside the central hall north-west. The original outside wall is visible in the top right.

Looking towards the entrance with interior wall visible in foreground.

South east staircase.

Looking north east over the ruins.

Pictures taken 12th July 2008.

Berkhamsted Castle, Hertfordshire

2008-10-07T10:47:00.020+01:00

The castle is reputed to be one of the oldest motte and bailey castles in Britain. The impressive motte, ruined chapel and flint and stone outer walls remain, allowing the visitor to gain a good grasp of the castle's structure.

The castle’s history starts after the defeat of King Harold on 14^th October 1066 by Duke William of Normandy. The Duke proceeded through the southern English shires to Berkhamsted where he was met by Archbishop Aldred who swore allegiance to him. William was crowned King of England on 25th December 1066 and passed Berkhamsted Castle to his half-brother Robert of Mortain. During his possession of the castle he set about fortifying the existing structure. He placed it at the bottom of a dry valley where springs were able to fill the moat and built timber structures to repel an attack. By 1123 the castle had fallen into the hands of Henry I after the previous inhabitant, his chancellor Ranulf, fell from his horse and was trampled on by a monk’s horse closely following.

1154 saw Henry II acquire the castle and was subsequently placed in the hands of his chancellors of the time, most notably Thomas Becket. During this period great sums of money were spent on the castle. He spent £10 on the king’s houses on/in the motte during 1157-8 and £14 on the chamber and motte during 1159-60. Becket later alleged to have spent over £300 on renovations to castle, a claim which lead Henry to accuse him of corruption and could have contributed to his falling out of favour in court. During the next 50 years the castle had more money spent on its fortifications: £60 on barns, bridges and other buildings in 1173 by William Windsor, £23 for the repair of houses, bridges and various gates in 1180 by William Ruffus and finally £17 19s on repairs by King John during the period 1200-1.

These new fortifications were put under test when in December 1216 Prince Louis of France landed and laid siege to Berkhamsted Castle. After his landing in the summer, his forces led successful attacks against the south of England, holding siege to the castles of Windsor and Dover. These were abandoned after news of King John’s death reached Prince Louis who decided to bring things to a head early. His troops marched to Hertford Castle which, after a heavy bombardment, surrendered on 6^thDecember. They then proceeded to march the 21 miles to Berkhamsted and surrounded the castle with light troops. The castle fell on 20^th December. His victory was short lived however, as in 1217 he was defeated and thus Berkhamsted was returned to the monarchy.

By 1227 King Henry III’s younger brother, Richard of Cornwall, was granted the manor and castle which ushered in new improvements to the castle’s estate. A three storied tower was built in 1254 along with improvements being made to the residential parts of the castle around 1270. He was succeeded by his son Edmund who died childless in 1300, leaving the castle in the hands of Edward I. He subsequently granted it to his second queen, Margaret of France. Upon her death, Edward II’s wife Isabella was granted the castle in 1317. During this period Edward III was on the throne and gave his son Edward, the Black Prince, the castle. In 1360 he made some much needed improvements to the castle which was now run down. In the same year King John of France was received as a prisoner from the battle of Poitiers. During the next twenty years the castle was becoming of little use and although repairs were recorded in 1384-7, 1441 and 1428, they did not lead to very much.

1469 saw Edward IV grant the castle to his mother, Cecily Duchess of York. During the reign of Henry VIII it passed through the hands of three of his wives: Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn and Jane Seymour. However by the late sixteenth century the castle was little more than a quarry, supplying the materials for nearby Berkhamsted Place which was built in around 1580. In more recent years the castle’s site has been used for storing statues during World War II and also as a venue for the local fete.

The site was much larger than I had expected and the ruins were far more intact than I had thought they would be. The visitor is able to walk along the top of the moat, viewing the whole castle site from every angle and then proceed over the original entrance into the castle’s green grounds. After touring the grounds, one can ascend the stairs of the motte and take in the view from the summit. It was pleasing to see that ludicrous health and safety rules haven’t yet been applied on site and so there were no railings or absurd signs obscuring the view or the enjoyment of exploring. I was disappointed to see that the moat had been drained but this was only a minor letdown. There are benches set around the site which offer a good opportunity to absorb the surroundings. Although there isn’t any fine brickwork or architecture to please the eye, the sheer scale of the site and the remaining earthworks provide a detailed insight into the castle’s previous life.

Travelling to the ruins is easy from either the train or by car. The castle is adjacent to Berkhamsted railway station which is on the London Midland line and is only a minutes’ walk away. If you travel by car, take the A4521 into Berkhamsted and follow the signs.

Sources:

Paul Martin – Berkhamsted Castle 1066 to 1495 – Dacorum Heritage Trust, 1998 – ISBN 1-899376-09-7

http://www.berkhamsted-castle.org.uk/index.htm

Looking through the wall towards the motte in the distance.

Looking from the street outside, over the moat, towards the west wall where the chapel once stood.

The remains of a 12th-13th century divding wall.

Showing the flint and stone wall sweeping round.

The motte.

Close up of the staircase leading to the top of the moat and the remains of the defensive wall; erected to protect the keep.

Looking from the top of the keep eastwards.

From the top of the keep looking westwards.

Pictures taken 3rd September 2008.

Old Gorhambury House, Hertfordshire

2008-09-24T18:15:00.029+01:00

The ruins of a once grand and impressive manor house, built by Sir Nicholas Bacon in 1563-8, remain in the grounds of the contemporary Gorhambury House. All that remains of Old Gorhambury is its flamboyant portico and parts of the hall, chapel and clock tower.

The name ‘Gorham-bury’ derives from ‘Geoffrey de Gorham’ who built the first recorded place of residence in 1130 on the site. This unusually large manor house was passed through multiple hands during the next 250 years, finally falling into the hands of the Abbey of St. Albans for over 140 years. After the dissolution of the Monasteries, Henry VIII granted the manor to Ralph Rowlett in 1541. Descending to his sons, the manor was then purchased by Sir Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England, 20 years later. He found the old de Gorham house outdated and so set about building a new place of residence. He sourced materials from the old Abbey buildings in St. Albans, which were in process of demolition, and from the previous house he was replacing. The new property, Gorhambury House, was completed in 1668 at a cost of £3,177 11s 9 ¼d. Sir Nicholas had piped water supplied to every room in the house using a system of donkey and windmill to exert the required pressure to draw water from a pond a mile away. However, when the pond ran dry this had to be abandoned for fear of an ‘infinite cost’.

This extravagance is mirrored in the interior of the house which was lavishly furnished. A fine panelled gallery projecting westwards housed a fireplace to the north which was coupled with painted windows to the south and west. The house contained three busts, made in 1568, of Sir Nicholas, his second wife Anne and his son Anthony. Also included were paintings of the family. To further the decadence, a shortened version of the family motto DIU.E.MO.DROIT was placed above the pediment of the elegant portico, complimented with the royal coat of arms. Beneath the pediment contained a plaque with the Roman capitals:

HAEC CUM PERFECIT NICOLAUS TECTA BACONUS,

ELIZABETH REGNI LUSTRA FUERE DUO.

FACTUS EQUES, MAGNI CUSTOS FUIT IPSA SIGILLI,

GLORIA SIT SOLI TOT TRIBUTA DEO.

This translates to the following:

‘When Nicholas Bacon brought these buildings to completion

Two lustrums (5 year period) of

Elizabeth’s reign had passed.

He had been knighted and made Keeper of the Great Seal,

May all glory be ascribed to God alone.’

The reference to Elizabeth I in the inscription can be ascribed to the many visits she made to the house, an occasion which could bankrupt even the wealthiest nobles. For example, one visit took place on 18th May – 21st May 1577 and cost £577 6s 7¼; about one third of the actual cost of building Bacon’s house. The majority of the money spent went on an extensive amount of food consumed over the four days. This included 34 lamb carcasses, 31 dozen chickens and 8 oxen. However, just two years after the visit, Sir Nicholas was dead.

This ushered in a new era of Gorhambury’s history as Nicholas’ ‘poor orphan’ son Francis inherited the estate in 1601 from his recently deceased brother Anthony. Sir Francis Bacon was a statesman, author and philosopher and an admirer of the Hertfordshire countryside. He spent a great deal of money on the house and gardens, employing painters and sculptors to realize his visions for the estate. He enjoyed walking amongst Gorhambury’s oak woods, ‘delicate groves’ and even built a temple of retreat to study the stars and conduct experiments. Even when falling heavily in debt after being fined £44,000 for corruption, Sir Francis refused to sell the house which is testament to his love of the estate. His inquisitive and scholarly mind led to his death in 1626, as whilst stuffing a chicken with snow to analyze preservation properties on flesh, he caught a chill and tragically died. This marked an end of the Bacon’s influence on the estate.

Having had no children, the property was passed to Sir Thomas Meautys, a secretary and friend of Bacon’s, who married Sir Nicholas Bacon’s grand-granddaughter, Anne Bacon. Upon Sir Thomas’ death in 1649 the house was passed to the recently married Sir Harbottle Grimston in 1660, second husband of Anne Bacon. The house was already 100 years old when it was passed to him and thus required some small repairs. These were carried out, along with extensive additions to the Chapel which is evidence of Sir Harbottle’s religious convictions. A new 20ft wall was commissioned, a new window added and a new white Purbeck and black marble floor laid. Much of the new wall was quarried from nearby Sopwell Nunnery which belonged to the Gorhambury estate. Sir Harbottle brought with him the splendid family antiquities collected over the years to Gorhambury. These included a portrait of his ancestor Edward Grimston which was painted in 1446 and is hanging in the National Gallery. He also brought a fine armorial pile carpet, woven in 1570 and believed to be the earliest hand woven pile carpet in existence. This can now be seen in the Great Hall at Gorhambury today.

After Sir Harbottle’s death in 1685, Gorhambury was inherited by Sir Harbottle’s only son, from his previous wife, Samuel. However he died childless in 1700 and so the house was passed to his great-nephew William Luckyn who, as result, became the first Viscount Grimston in 1719. The house fell into further hands over the next 55 years and into disrepair. The structure became unsound with damp and cold starting to seep through. It was clear that the house was no place to bring up a family and so the then owner James Grimston, 3rd Viscount Grimston had plans drawn up for the present Gorhambury house to be built. The building was started in 1777 and finished in 1784. Tudor Gorhambury was left for ruins and slowly declined to the state it is in today.

The site is very peaceful and the surrounding countryside fresh. The ruins themselves are in reasonable condition with fireplaces and original stone window surrounds still intact. The highlight however is the elegant portico which still impresses even to this day. One can see the 18th century Gorhambury house in the distance amongst the trees and greenery which surrounds it. The information at the site is adequate, however further signage would have been welcome to understand what remains fully. The ruins are accessible via a 2 mile path which can be assessed by foot at any time or by car 1 May to 30 Sep, on Thursday’s pm only. Please also bear in mind that the site is undergoing some renovation work and is not able to be visited until mid October 2008.

Location - http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=511000&y=207700&z=3&sv=511000,207700&st=OSGrid&lu=N&tl=~&ar=y&bi=~&mapp=newmap.srf&searchp=newsearch.srf

Sources:

The Grimstons of Gorhambury - Norah King - Published by Phillimore and Co. LTD 1983. ISBN 0 85033 474 8

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Gorhambury_House

Picture of the ruins in their entirety.

The extravagent portico.

Close up of the Julius Ceaser carving above the entrance of the portico.

Picture of 18th century Gorhambury.

Picture showing the beauty of the surrounding countryside.

Pictures taken 24th July 2008.

John Bunyan's Chimney, Hertfordshire

2008-08-31T15:40:00.022+01:00

The 17th century chimney stack is all that remains of a cottage, demolished in 1877, thought to have given residence to John Bunyan.

Bunyan (1628 – 1688) is most famous for his religious allegory The Pilgrim’s Progress which is said to be, on some accounts, the most widely read book in the English language and has been translated into 200 different languages. He was a frequent visitor to Hertfordshire and often preached in the nearby villages, an activity which landed him with a 12 year prison sentence in nearby Bedford, during which he wrote both volumes of his novel. He died on August 31st 1688, having caught a severe cold on the way back from London.

The site is very small and is literally just a chimney stack. I was disappointed to see crude steel supports placed on it which took some of the charm away. However, the site is well worth a brief look if visiting the John Bunyan pub or desirous a pleasant bike ride through the Hertfordshire countryside. It is very easy to find; from the High Street, Wheathampstead, turn left into Marford Road (B651), and then right into Coleman Green Lane. Follow this road for just over ½ a mile, and the chimney can be seen on the left, just before ‘The John Bunyan’ Public House. Grid reference TL 1905 1265.

Sources:
Information sign on site – St. Albans Museum.
http://www.hertsdirect.org/libsleisure/heritage1/archaeology/moreaboutarch/archsites/johnbunyans/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Bunyan

Sagging chimney stack.

Picture showing the plaque which states: 'John Bunyan is said by tradition to have preached and occasionally to have lodged in the cottage of which this chimney was a part'.

Pictures taken 30th August 2008.

Welwyn Roman Baths, Hertfordshire

2008-08-29T17:40:00.023+01:00

The baths were found in the 1960s by the local archaeologist Tony Rook, who upon seeing tiles protruding from the bank of the River Mimram set up a dig and began to excavate the site with a local group. One find led to another with the discovery of a Roman villa firstly then the bath house. Further excavations revealed the true extent of the find with four buildings of the Roman villa being excavated. The collective is known as Dicket Mead villa.

However, just after the villa was found, plans to build the A1 directly through the site were accepted. Fortunately, The Department of the Environment agreed to fund the preservation of the site and thus a steel cage, built within the motorway embankment, was erected to protect the ruins. Further funding was raised to finance extra fixtures and fittings to create the superb exhibition seen today.

The baths were used by the residents of Dicket Mead villa and so were for private use only. The hypocaust is clearly visible, as are the individual rooms, labelled by a series of small markers. The visitor is able to follow the bathing routine by walking along the raised walkway, tracing the various stages of the process.

(Four stages taken directly from the given leaflet with my own pictures added)

I. Firstly we go into the cold room (frigidarium), take off our clothes and put on wooden-soled sandals to protect our feet.

II. Then we go into the warm room (tepidarium), sit back and relax, talk or perhaps play a board game. As we begin to perspire we rub oil on our bodies.

III. Now we go into the hot room (caldarium) where the floor is too hot to stand on without our sandals. Here we scrape our skin clean with a curved knife called a strigil. We then wash in the hot bath.

IV. Then we walk back to the cold room, stand in a bath of water and have more cold water poured over us to cool us down. Then we dry ourselves dress and return to the villa.

The site was surprisingly extensive and more intact than I had originally thought they may be. The extra display of pottery, broaches and other items found on site was very informative and a welcome addition to what could have been an ordinary set of ruins. The information given on site was excellent and thorough, explaining the process of uncovering the ruins, how the baths were used and even a model showing how the villa would have looked originally.

A model figure feeding the lead furnace which once lay there.

The site is open from January to November; Saturdays, Sundays and bank holidays from 2pm – 5pm and cost £1.50 entry. The address is as follows: Welwyn Bypass, Welwyn, AL6 9HT, Hertfordshire, England and is relatively easy to find using the sign posting.

Pictures taken 25th August 2008.

The Roman Theatre of Verulamium: St. Albans, Hertfordshire

2008-08-24T21:22:00.017+01:00

The Roman Theatre of Verulamium 140AD – 300AD is the only visible example of a Roman theatre in Britain. It was once used for sacrifices, plays, wild beast fights and other Roman entertainments. The ruins were excavated in 1847 and subsequently during the 1930s by Dr Kathleen Kenyon. Furthermore a row of shop foundations, a Roman Villa and a secret shrine were unearthed and are able to visit.

Built in around 140AD, the theatre’s appearance would not have been to dissimilar to that of existing ones today: a semicircular auditorium facing a stage. Roman theatres contained an orchestra, usually where town magistrates and other notable local figures would have sat. The theatre at Verulamium houses a circular one, measuring 78ft across and was constructed by digging into the hill side which created the unusually large space. The spare earth was then piled into great banks to create the auditorium, lined with wooden benches for the local townspeople to sit on and wooden staircases installed for access. These banks were then supported by a flint and mortar wall, strengthened by small buttresses. The stage would have been constructed simply as a wooden platform, coupled with wooden steps leading from the orchestra to the stage. It would not have had a roof which posed problems when it rained - not just for the audience who were getting wet but for the sunken orchestra which acted as a basin. Thus a drainage system was built which ran along Watling Street, just behind the stage. Picture above shows the circular orchestra. Click to enlarge.

160AD saw a large fire which destroyed a large part of Verulamium but left the theatre intact. When the rebuilding of the town took place, a large amount of modifications were made to the theatre in around 180AD. The stage was brought forwards by 8ft into the orchestra, as well as the rear portion of the stage receiving a roof. The newly added roof was supported by three pillars and would have been tiled. The three foundations are still evident at the site, along with a reconstructed pillar made from the remains found in the excavation (picture below). A pulley system was introduced at the side of the stage to operate a curtain of which the counter balance used in the pulley system is on display at the nearby Verulamium museum. A small rectangular house was also built next to the stage which is thought to have been a changing room but could have perhaps been used as a caretaker’s house.

By 300AD the theatre was at its most sophisticated with a new outer wall being built, the diameter of the auditorium increasing, the stage being further extended and a monumental arch built over Watling Street. However by 380AD, the theatre fell into disrepute and is thought to have been used as a rubbish dump which can be discerned from the large amount of 4th century coinage found in the orchestra. By the 1100s the theatre would have been in ruins and was seen by the medieval builders of the day as a good quarry. Much of the sandstone and marble in the roman village would have been used in the construction of the nearby St. Albans Abbey.

Although mainly rough foundations, the site is of much interest and well worth a visit. It’s situated in a splendid area overlooking the grounds of Gorhambury which are visible from the man-made grass banks described above. The theatre is open every day, all year round. In summer the opening times are 10am – 5pm and in winter, 10am – 4pm. The theatre is located on the outskirts of St. Albans, just off the A4147. The walk from St. Albans main station is around two miles. Much of the information written here is taken from a pamphlet available at the entrance to the site which costs £1.50 and is definitely worth buying for more detailed information.

Sources:
The Roman Theatre of Verulamium (Pamphlet) – Dr. Rosalind Niblett

http://www.romantheatre.co.uk/

Picture showing one of three columns used to support the stage roof. Reconstructed from remnants found on site.

Longshot of the pillar looking over the tops of the seating banks.

The seating bank and wall foundations.

Site of the dressing room.

Site of the former Roman shops which were burnt down by Queen Boudicca.

Site of the Roman town house built 150AD in close proximity to the shops.

Grooves showing where the previously installed under-floor heating pipes were laid. They would be connected to a furnace below.

Pictures taken 24th August 2008.

Royston Cave, Hertfordshire

2008-08-13T23:14:00.039+01:00

The cave is a man made cavity measuring 26ft in height and 17ft in diameter and is situated below Melbourn road, Royston. This is in close proximity to Royston Cross, a prehistoric crossroads which could hold significant meaning as cross roads were regarded as sacred in ancient times.

Lying for almost 400 years undiscovered, the cave was exposed by accident in August 1742 by workmen erecting a new bench for the traders and patrons of Royston to sit upon. Whilst digging the foundations, the men found a millstone which they subsequently moved, revealing a shaft leading down into the earth. A small boy was volunteered to descend the shaft via toe holes cut into the chalk and thus discovered the cavern half filled with earth. In the interests of finding buried treasure, the townsfolk managed to remove most of the earth overnight but found only a skull, fragments of bone, pieces of a broken drinking cup and a small piece of unmarked brass. The millstone which covered the entrance is now in two pieces. One forms part of the last step of the present entrance and the other is lying alongside it.

The present entrance was built in 1790 by a bricklayer named Thomas Watson who set about carving the 72ft tunnel between the Town House and is the only place in the cave where wall carvings were not present. He then subsequently charged 6 pence a visit as he gradually took over the running of the cave. In more recent years the town council bought the cave and with help of volunteers from the District Local History Society is able to be visited by the public from Easter to the last Sunday in September. The picture shows the type of oil lamp called a cresset which the dwellers would use. Also in view is the chimney made to draw the fumes out.

The cave’s use is still debatable to this day. The most popular theory is that the cave was used by the Knights Templar as a secret meeting place before their dissolution by Pope Clement V in 1312. Some of the wall markings would suggest this, with a depiction of Grand Master Jacques de Molay being burnt at the stake. Similarly, Saints revered by the Templar are also evident in the wall which furthers the theory that the institution occupied the cave. It was said that the templars and the local Prior were on bad terms and thus were possibly banned from using the local chapel for prayer, hence the need for a secluded place for worship which is exactly what the cavern could offer. Other suggestions include it’s being used as a store house for local Augustinian monks from the local priory or simply a Neolithic mine.

The cave is extremely interesting and is well worth a visit. It’s located on Melbourn Street, Royston and is easy to spot; just look out for the Royston Cave Shop. There is lots of parking available around Royston but not directly in the site. Entry is £3 for adults and £2 for concessions. An extremely informative leaflet is provided in the cave itself (much of the information here is provided by it) and a small tour via CD is played whilst down there which is interesting. The cave is open from Easter to the last Sunday in September on weekends and bank holidays 2.30pm – 5.00pm. During August it is open on Wednesdays 2.30pm – 5.00pm also.

Sources:

Guide To Royston Cave (Pamphlet) 1999 - Revised 2004.

Exploring Royston Cave - Sylvia P. Beamon - Revised Edition 2007

http://www.benhammott.com/royston-templar-cave.html

http://www.indigogroup.co.uk/edge/Royston.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royston_Cave

http://www.roystoncave.co.uk/index.html

St. Lawrence who was martyred on the gridiron. (Note his holding of a gridiron in his right hand)

St. Katherine who was condemned to death on the breaking wheel (seen holding in right hand) but broke when she touched it and was subsequently beheaded. The Templars held her in high regard as on St. Katherine's day in 1177 they had a notable victory over the Saracen Saladin.

St. Christopher, patron saint of travellers, with the child Jesus on his shoulder and staff in hand. (Orange tint is from the lighting in the cave, some pictures have flash (black and white) whereas others have none: orange)

Said to be St. Michael or possibly St. George. His sword points to Jesus and the twelve disciples.

Jesus and his twelve disciples. Note Judas fourth in from the right as faceless and squashed.

St. Lawrence, identified as King David, the writer of the psalms. Psalm 69 is a plea for help and lament about being misunderstood and persecuted, a reflection of the position in which the Templars found themselves in the 14th Century.

The shute found by the workmen. This would have been the original entrance to the cave.

Sectional drawing of the cave, depicting the wooden platform, shaped as the 'Star of David' which is thought to have split the cave into two sections. However other research suggests that a balcony surrounding the walls was erected for the merchants of the market to easily descend and say their daily prayers with ease.

Pictures taken 13th August 2008.

Minsden Chapel, Hertfordshire

2008-07-27T00:11:00.052+01:00

Built in the 14th century and a stop off for pilgrims travelling to St. Albans, the chapel is little more than a crumbling, flint based shell and is thought to have been in decline since the 1600s. Four hundred years of dissolution due to continued pilfering and disuse has left the church with no more than three columns and two main walls. The windows have long since gone, along with the lead roof which is thought to have been stolen in 1690 by Jeremiah Godfrey. Upon visiting the site and conducting further research, I have since found that the original window surround which formed a ruined arch has collapsed, only within the last year perhaps - legitimizing the ‘warning falling masonry’ sign I scoffed at earlier.

The site was once popular for marriages due to it’s previously scenic setting which is now masked by foliage and a small wood. On 11th July 1738, upon the marriage ceremony of Enoch West and Mary Horn, a piece of falling masonry knocked the prayer book out the curates’ hand and was thus deemed by the Bishop of Lincoln too dangerous for any further marriages to take place. This acted as a catalyst to further decay.

By the 20th century the chapel became associated with the local historian Reginald Hine from Hitchin who published a series of books on the history of the town in the late 1920s. He fell in love with the ruins and promptly leased the site for the duration of his lifetime, visiting it frequently. His worries about the chapel’s condition deteriorating further are evident from the threat that he would proceed against any ‘trespassers and sacrilegious persons’ with the ‘utmost rigour of the law’ in life and ‘will endeavor to, in all ghostly ways, to protect and haunt its hallowed walls’ after death. He committed suicide in 1949 by calmly stepping in front of a steam train at Hitchin railway station whilst in mid conversation with a friend. Hine’s ashes were scattered in the chapel and a grave stone was set into the floor next to the chapel’s former main window.

Paranormal activity is reputed to be rife at the site with an alleged phantom monk appearing every midnight on Halloween, climbing a (once installed) staircase in the north of the chapel. The tolling of the chapel’s bells, stolen in 1725 by looters allegedly heading towards the nearby town of Harpenden, can apparently be heard, along with a distance sound of music. Stories of a glowing cross, a murdered nun and the ghost of a small child haunting the area are also known. Interestingly, whilst visiting the site, my companion said he heard a girl laughing - a possible brush with the paranormal?

Minsden Chapel is located just north of Whitwell. The footpath is on the B651, around a mile up the road from ‘Highwood lane’. There is parking available on a small patch of dry earth at the entrance to the footpath. It will take a five minute walk up a muddy path, around the outside of the small wood until a stile appears which when stepped over, leads to the ruin; it is well hidden so make sure you have planned well before you arrive as it does look confusing when first arriving.

Sources:

http://www.ukdecay.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2032

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minsden_Chapel

http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/england/hertfordshire/herts6.html

http://www.richard-whitmore.info/books.php
http://www.prestonherts.co.uk/page85.html

Close up of what appears to be the last peice of remaining brick work of the chapel. Note the rectangular space, probably to hold a beam.

East wall. Note the arches still intact.

Closer look at the larger arch.

The East Wall.

Last remaining part of the west wall. Note the amount of foliage growing around the ruins now.

Looking towards the north at the former north wall with large arched window. Note the rubble in the centre: the arch appears to have collapsed in as short a space of time as this year.

Reginald Hine's Grave. Just to the left of the ruin entrace. Very easy to miss.

Pictures taken 26th July 2008.

Someries Castle, Bedfordshire

2008-07-25T19:04:00.050+01:00

The last remaining remnants of Someries Castle, the gatehouse and chapel, were part of a construction begun by John, Lord Wenlock, in the 1440s. ‘The gateway consists of entrance passageway flanked by two massive part-octagonal turrets. The spiral staircase in the south-west corner of the ruin, entirely constructed from brick and including a spiraling handhold, led to the upper floor and to a cellar, now filled in. The chapel to the east was added a few years later, probably between 1460 and Wenlock’s death' at the Battle of Tewkesbury on 4 May 1471.

It’s regarded as one of the first brick buildings in England with a superb brick handhold in the spiral staircase and an inset diamond motif above the entrance to boast. The castle is now inhabited by chickens from the next door farm which adds to the rusticity of the site. This is juxtaposed however, by the nearby (about quarter of a mile away) Luton Airport runway. This doesn’t detract from the overall enjoyment of the visit and adds a further quirky element to ruins.

They can be visited at any ‘reasonable time’ and is free of charge. Access is through a country lane leading off Lower Luton Road (B653) with numerous, fairly deep, potholes. There is space to park just in front of the ruins by the farm house and is by no means busy. It would make a good cycle or walking trip.

Location - MultiMap

Looking through the turret entrance to the entrance to the courtyard.

Looking through the courtyard gate towards the east turret entrance.

Interior of the Chapel.

Looking through an interior door through into the chapel vestibule to the far rear.

Shot of the part-octagonal turret.

The interior of the east turret.

The spiral staircase.

Shot showing the brickwork above the turret entrance.

Diamond motif above the entrance to the courtyard.

Pictures taken 24th July 2008.