Folly Arch, North Mymms

I don’t like follies much. They feel contrived and charmless. But this does not necessarily mean they aren’t interesting. Folly Arch is a curious structure which I felt needed some explanation.

Folly Arch is all that remains of Gobions Estate, an ancient pile dating back to the twelfth century. The manor house had associations with the More family (Sir Thomas) and was thus known as More Hall during the sixteenth century. Connections to the Gybynnes family saw the house go through various different spellings of the name until finally arriving at ‘Gobions’ in the early-mid nineteenth century.

The man responsible for the arch, Sir Jeremy Sambrooke, bought the estate in 1707. He is thought to have erected the folly in 1740 after inheriting the baronetcy from his recently deceased nephew. It is an early example of gothic revival and is thus listed as being of ‘important landscape value’ by English Heritage.

Although my thoughts on follies have been expressed above, the novelty value is indeed there and makes for quite a striking and welcome scene after having driven through the banality of Colony Heath and North Mymms. For this alone we must thank Sir Jeremy.

Reading reports online suggests that the arch may have been in threat of collapsing at the turn of the 21^st century due to large cracks appearing on the archway itself. Bracing seemed to have been erected at the time (rather unsympathetically I might add) but I am pleased to report that there is only minimal bracing currently and the cracks appear to have been filled.

Location – The junction between Hawkshead Road and Swanley Bar Lane – just south of Gobions Wood.

Sources

- http://www.brookmans.com/environment/gobions/ch1.shtml

- http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-158526-the-folly-arch-north-mymms

Photographs taken on 31st July 2011

Church of St. Etheldreda, Graveley

The church of St. Etheldreda is a curious building. Set in what appears to be someone’s garden it is the only remains of the medieval village of Chesfield which in 1445 was merged with the parish of Graveley. The license for demolition was granted by the Bishop of Licoln in 1750.

Documentary evidence makes reference to a chapel at Chesfield Manor, 1216 which suggests an earlier church stood before the contemporary one. The current church ruins are thought to be of the 13^th or early 14^th century. They consist of a rectangular nave and chancel coupled with a later small chapel in the south-east corner. The walls are constructed of flint and are reported to still contain elements of original plaster work.

The location of the church makes it rather difficult to have a look around. Two fences obstruct the way: it appeared the ruins lie on private ground. Climbing over one fence allows one to gain a closer look but I cannot say that this is recommended. Directions are as follows:

Take the B197 from Stevenage to Graveley, turn right at the garage into Church Lane and follow this for about 1¼ miles to the church.

The site is on the north side of the road near Chesfield Park. Grid Reference TL 2474 2792.

Sources

- http://www.hertsdirect.org/services/leisculture/heritage1/archaeology/moreaboutarch/archsites/chesfield/

- http://risk.english-heritage.org.uk/2010.aspx?id=860&rt=1&pn=8&st=a&ctype=all&crit=church

- http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43586

- http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-162616-church-of-st-etheldrada-graveley

- http://www.francisfrith.com/stevenage/photos/the-ruins-of-st-etheldredas-church-chesfield-1899_44280/

The nave.

South-east chapel.

Looking west through the ruined nave.

View from the road.

Photograph of the ruins in 1899 over run with ivy. (Part of the Francis Firth collection - link provided in 'sources' above)

Photographs taken 2nd July 2011.

St. Albans Clock Tower, Hertfordshire

Standing proud on Market Cross is the Clock Tower of St. Albans. It provides a superb insight and brief encapsulation into medieval times and is said to be an almost unique building of its type in England.

A Defiant Construction

The Peasant’s Revolt of 1381 was a rebellion against the feudal system: a system which tied the peasantry to their masters by way of debt. Discontentment rose and rioting began but ultimately ended in failure with the execution of the rebellion’s leader, Wat Tyler, in London. This failure to induce solid change is thought to have spawned the construction of the Clock Tower as a defiant act towards the powerful Abbey next door. Construction is thought to have begun by Thomas Wolvey, the royal mason, in around 1403-1412 using infilled flint, brick and stone to build the 65ft, five storied tower which we see today.

The original bell which was fitted was in fact older than the Tower itself having been cast in 1335. The bell ‘is inscribed ‘Missi de coelis habeo nomen Gabrielis’ which translates to ‘I carry the heaven-sent name of Gabriel’. This suggests that the bell may have been given by the Abbey and shows a certain truce between church and citizen. A newer bell was cast and fitted in 1729.

The Tower played an important part in the daily life of the citizens of St. Albans. It managed the market hours and was rung at 4am and 8pm to mark the start and end of the trading day. It was also rung to indicate the curfew time and historically as an alarm to notify the citizens of a surprise attack by the Yorkists in the War of the Roses.

Near Demolition and War

By 1700 the Tower was in a bad way and was in danger of being demolished but was fortunately spared and restored. It had a varied history from then on having been used fleetingly as a post office and then later during the Napoleonic Wars as part of a semaphore line. This consisted of a twenty feet high timber shutter and a small signaller’s hut which were erected on the top of the tower to deliver messages across the country to warn of any oncoming enemy. During peace time the shutter was taken down but the hut remained for the next four decades.

Repair work, lead by Gilbert Scott, continued in 1865 at the cost of £800. Part of this consisted of an automatic system to light the Tower using ‘incandescent gas’. Further improvements were made in 1971. The old lean-to sheds were removed from the base of the Tower which opened up the cobbled area to be used as a public meeting/sitting spot.

Ascending

Entering the Tower through a small wooden door the side takes one into the shop. This and the first floor were let together in 1900. Climbing to the second floor reveals where the clock keeper’s living area was which would have been in use from 1412 – 1866. The third floor contains the Victorian clock which was designed Lord Grimthorpe in 1866. Interestingly, this same gentleman designed the mechanism for Big Ben in London. Continuing up will take one passed the original bell in the fourth floor and then further up onto the top of the Tower itself. Great views of St. Albans Abbey along with the surrounding town and countryside are available.

The Tower is open Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays from Easter to October 10.30am – 5.00pm and costs a £1 to enter for adults and concessions for children.

Sources

- St Albans: A History and Celebration of the City - Tom Doig - 2004 - ISBN: ISBN 1-90493845-0.
- A History of St Albans (History of) – James Corbett – 2006

Panorama looking towards Dunstable Downs from the top of the Tower.

Looking down at the Market Place.

Photographs taken 23rd August 2010

St. Lawrence Church, Ayot St. Lawrence

St. Lawrence Church, located in the small village of Ayot St. Lawrence is a picturesque, dilapidated ruin set in the west of the village. Built of flint with stone dressings to compliment, the church is in a dishevelled state which although sad to see, does make for an idyllic scene.

Discerning the Remnants

The original church is thought to have consisted of a chancel and nave built c. 1150. The 13^th century saw the north aisle constructed, part of the ‘early English’ remodeling of the church during the period. A century later bore witness to the building of the north chapel or ‘patrons chapel’. The nave was partly rebuilt and the chancel built and extended using the existing foundations. The 15^th century saw the north aisle extended and embattled tower built towards the end of the 15^th/early 16^th century. It is made of three stages and is still roofed. The north-west corner of the tower contains a tomb-chest sporting badly damaged effigies of a knight and lady of the early 15^th century. The octagonal font present is also in a bad way. Repair work is evident, with buttresses and filler works helping to maintain what is left of the roofless church.

A Room without a View

How did such a church become so dilapidated? The answer lies in nearby Ayot Manor whose once owner Sir Lionel Lyde, a tobacco merchant from Bristol, felt St. Lawrence was a blemish on the landscape adjacent to his new Georgian redbrick mansion built in 1775. To rid himself of such blight he arranged for the church to be pulled down. The Bishop of Lincoln, whose diocese encompassed the area in which the church stood, managed to halt proceedings. The church was never rebuilt and so lies as a romantic ruin to this day. Sir. Lionel built a new neo-classical church on the grounds of his house to replace St. Lawrence. A picture of this is below.

Paying a Visit

The church is open most of the year round. Even if the gate is locked an excellent view is still provided.

Sources

- http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43580

- Hertfordshire - N Pevsner - Yale University Press; 2nd New edition of Revised edition edition (1 Jan 1963) - ISBN 0300096119

The church facing north-west.

Main entrance. Contains small amounts of 12th-century masonry.

14th-century arch which leads from the chapel into the chancel is evident on the right. 15th-century nave window to the left.

Looking throught the nave and into where the now destroyed chancel would have been. 13th-century arch connecting the north aisle to the chapel visible on the left.

Early 15th-century tomb and effergies of a knight and lady.

Showing the tomb-chest's detail.

Damaged octagonal font.

Filled in staircase presumably leading to the tower.

Neo-Classical church built by Sir Lionel Clyde to replace St. Lawrence Church.

Pictures taken 16th June 2010.

Houghton House, Bedfordshire

Houghton House is an elaborate 17^th century hunting lodge, the extensive remains of which are visible today. The site boasts two Italianate loggias and picturesque views over the countryside.

Ownership

The house was built in the 17^th century and was thought to have been designed by the architect John Thorpe. It was commissioned by Mary Herbert, Countess of Pembroke, who had close ties to the royal court. Such ties are evident by King James I granting her the piece of land on which the house was built. Work finished in 1621, a year which saw King James I visit Houghton.

Mary’s death of smallpox on 25^th September the same year saw the house passed to Thomas Bruce, 1st Earl of Elgin in 1624. The house remained in possession of the Bruce family until the 3^rd Earl retired to exile overseas in 1696 on account of his loyalty to the Stuarts and James II of England.

Houghton was sold to John Russell, 4^th Duke of Bedford. His sons however predeceased him, and so the house was passed to his grandson Francis Russell. He was unable to let the house without the park, so in 1794 the 5^th Duke of Bedford ordered the house to be stripped of its furnishings and dismantled. The roof was removed and the some of the furnishings used elsewhere (the staircase survives in The Swan Hotel, Bedford). The duke never married and thus never produced an heir. He died in 1802 leaving the house open to the elements and able to fall into a ruinous state.

Living at Houghton

After Mary’s death, the house fell into the hands of many different characters who adapted the house to fit their needs. Some of these changes are listed below.

The arrival of the Bruce family after the death of Mary ushered in a life of country relaxation rather than one of full time hunting. This change saw the hunting staircases in the corner turrets being replaced by a grand staircase, inserted in the Stone Hall. The staircase was made of elaborately carved wood, complemented by decorative plasterwork which is still evident today in the ruins. As mentioned above, this staircase is still visible today at The Swan Hotel in Bedford.

The Great Hall was the largest space in the house and was accessed from the main entrance of the house. It would have been used for dining on special occasions and must have been an impressive sight for an arriving visitor. The hall was eventually partitioned to create a private dining room for the family.

Above the Great Hall was the Great Chamber which was used for private dining and as reception rooms. Whilst owned by the Marquess of Tavistock 1764 -1767 the space was converted into a library.

A Country Visit

The setting of the house is magnificent and one can fully appreciate why the location was chosen to build such a place. The high aspect allows for views seemingly stretching for miles and the most relaxed rural tranquility. This was somewhat marred by a family with children screaming and shouting, so I suggest a visit during school time. The ruins are the most intact and largest I’ve blogged about and are very impressive. The splendid south face of the house emerges from the tree-lined path as one makes one’s way through the entrance porch and into where the old Great Hall was. Fireplaces and doorways are evident on both stories, as are the complex interweaving flumes leading to the chimney which are of interest. Heading directly north leads through a neo-classical loggia and down some stairs onto the garden which is now just grass. It allows the visitor to take in the full splendor and size of the building. Walking around to the west face reveals another loggia with Mary Herbert’s coat of arms embossed above. The ruins are some of the best I’ve visited, both for the magnificent views and the sheer scale of what is left to see.

The ruins are located North East of Ampthill off the A421 / 8 miles south of Bedford. There is sufficient sign posting to be able to navigate to the ruins without a problem.

Sources:

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.11995

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houghton_House

View of the house from the path leading round onto the driveway.

Front porch entrance.

North face showing one of two neo-classical loggias.

Wider shot showing the north face.

West face showing the second loggia.

The western loggia.

The western loggia II.

'Mary Herbert's personal emblems were carved in the freize of the loggia. The bear and staff was the emblem of the Dudleys, her mother's family; the lion represents her father's family, the Sidneys. Mary combined her initals M and H, with the arrow head emblem of her father's family to create her own arms'

An idea of how magnificent the view is.

Looking up the driveway.

Pictures taken 21st September 2008.

Hertford Castle, Hertfordshire

The original castle is now little more than a pleasant park, surrounded partly by a flint and stone curtain wall and overlooked by the more recently built Grade I listed gatehouse which lies on the site of an old Norman Castle.

History

By 1066 the small fortified site built by Edward the Elder in 911 had now evolved into a full scale motte and bailey castle. After William the Conqueror’s victory at the battle of Hastings he acquired the castle and passed it to his follower and Sherriff of Herefordshire, Peter de Valoignes. Work commenced on fortifying the site as a stronghold for the nobility as a means of protection from their hostile new subjects.

Henry II’s ascension saw his clamping down on the unruly barons of the land and thus he built castles all over England. Improvements to Hertford accompanied this. Such examples can be found in the form of the stone and flint wall visible today 1170 – 1174, along with drawbridges and gatehouses. These improvements were ready to be put to the test as by 1216 King Louis landed on English soil ready to claim the throne from the new King, Henry III. This saw the castle besieged for a month until the Governor, Walter de Godarvil, was forced to surrender to the French soldiers. However by 1217, English opinion turned and favoured Henry III, forcing the French forces out of the country.

1309 saw the first political prisoners being held in the castle - the recently disgraced and disbanded, Knights of the Templar. There are said to be many hidden Templar tunnels winding their way under the town of Hertford, linking houses and even the castle itself but are now long sealed off.

The next notable period in the castle’s history is during the reign of Edward III who spent much of his time in the castle, having it surveyed and valued in 1332. Then in 1337 war with France broke out, The Hundred Years War, which saw detainees of noble or royal rank being held at the castle. King David II of Scotland was held there as one of its first prisoners, as was King John of France briefly in April 1359. The castle was then handed to Edward’s third son, John of Gaunt, who carried out much needed repairs on the castle’s defences.

The castle passed through the hands of Richard II, Richard III, Henry IV, Henry V with the young heir Henry VI spending most of his early life there. Henry VII spent little time in the castle. His son however, Henry VIII, upon inheriting it, spent a sizeable sum of money transforming the castle into a palace. Most notably repairing the gatehouse, originally built by Edward IV and still standing today.

Elizabeth I 1558 – 1601 was a regular visitor to Hertford, granting the town powers to pass bye-laws. During the plague the law courts and possibly even parliament was transferred to Hertford. This, coupled with other individuals escaping the plague, resulted in the town’s population swelling dramatically.

The death of Elizabeth saw James I, the first Stuart King, crowned monarch. He knew little about English tradition and thus had little interest in maintaining it's heritage. The castle ceased to be a place of royal residence and fell into disrepute. However, during Charles I’s reign 1625-49 he granted the castle to William Cecil, second Earl of Salisbury, who in turn leased it to Sir William Harrington of Hertingfordbury Park. He made repairs to the buildings and began restoring them to their former state.

The castle remained in the hands of the Cecil family who leased it to various individuals. Improvements were made over the next 400 years. A South Wing was added to the gatehouse in 1790, a new gateway and lodge in 1800 was erected, and finally the north wing was built during the 1930s. The end of the 20^th century saw the castle being generously given to Hertford by the Earl of the county.

The main attraction of the castle is the large gatehouse which was hosting a wedding when I visited. The grounds are very pleasant and are surrounded by the original flint and stone curtain wall which is of interest. The site also contains a large stone marking the position where the first General Synod in 673 AD was held. Walking through the grounds will lead one to the River Lea, running down past a mound which used to be the motte (the picture of which is below). On a fine day, Hertford Castle is well worthy of a visit, if not just to sample the pleasant grounds.

To get to the castle do the following:

By Car, from the A10: take Hertford exit, at next roundabout take exit to Hertford Town Centre. At next roundabout take 2nd exit to Town Centre, at next roundabout take 1st exit. At next roundabout take 3rd exit towards Bengeo. Take immediate turning on left, Castle Street, follow road round and into Castle grounds.
By Car, from the A414 (A1/M1): as you enter Hertford, go over roundabout and under railway bridge. At next roundabout take 2nd exit straight on. At next roundabout take 1st exit then left into Castle Street, follow road round and into Castle grounds.
Parking: St Andrew Street or Gascoyne Way (A414). Both within easy walking distance of Hertford Castle.
By Train: To Hertford East or Hertford North. Make for Castle Hall, The Wash, Hertford then walk through.

Sources:

http://www.hertford.gov.uk/

http://www.hertford.net/history/castle/

The Motte.

The stone marking where the first General Synod was held.

More pictures in the pipe line.

Pictures taken 20th September 2008.

Sopwell Priory, St. Albans

Although labeled as a nunnery, the remaining stonework is in fact that of a manor house partly built in the 16^th century by Richard Lee; a soldier and royal engineer to Henry VIII. The original structure built on the site was a priory named ‘Sopwell’, dating from 1140.

The Early Priory

The priory’s story starts with two holy women living life as hermits next to the River Ver in 1140. They built shelter from branches of trees and wattles by winding them together and covering them with bark. Geoffrey de Gorham, Abbot of St Albans, was impressed with the saintly women’s acts and thus founded Sopwell Priory in their honour. The name ‘Sopwell’ was given to the land where the women lived: it’s origin coming from the act of ‘sopping’ or ‘dipping’ bread into the nearby Holy Well which the women would then offer to pilgrims journeying to St Albans Abbey. After the priory had been built Geoffrey made clear that the number of nuns living at Sopwell should not exceed thirteen, this signified Jesus and his twelve apostles together as one. He also insisted that the nuns be ‘locked up at night’ to ensure their safety and adhere to the strict rules of solitude. He died in 1146 having served 36 years as the abbot.

Troubles at Sopwell

During 1330 a dispute arose between the then 28^th Abbot of St Albans, Richard de Wallingford and the nuns at Sopwell. The nuns were allegedly growing tired of their constant dependency on the Abbey and thus felt they deserved a greater influence within the election of the new prioress after the death of the previous one, Phillipa. Abbot Richard consulted with his prior, Nicholas de Flamsteade and both decided to quash the ‘rebellion’. Prior Nicholas asked each nun who they wanted elected. Sixteen nuns favoured Alice de Hakeney while only three favoured the sub-prioress Alice de Pekesdene. Disregarding the sister’s opinion, Prior Nicholas appointed Alice de Pekesdene which highlights how little influence the nuns had in matters regarding the nunnery.

Further restrictions were introduced by Abbot Michael de Michael regarding the conduct of the nuns. Any nun found being disobedient to the Prioress would be put on bread and water. No one except a nun could occupy the dormitory at night and after the afternoon meal and all nuns must go out to work. These were put in place to ensure proper conduct as the Abbot had stated that he was not happy that some of the original virtues of the founding nuns were being forgotten. The next Abbot, Thomas de la Mare, clamped down on further troubles at the priory by building a house for the Warden of Sopwell and giving him instructions that ‘no man, secular or religious, could ever enter the Priory without the Abbot’s permission’. Life for the nuns appears restricted and regimented with their having little influence in the politics of the priory.

Life in there didn’t improve. For the next 150 years it experienced financial difficulties and by the time of the Dissolution in Henry VIII’s reign there were only five nuns inhabiting it. It gradually fell into disrepute where Richard Lee is introduced to the story.

Lee Hall

After serving with the Army of Calais, King Henry VIII rewarded him and his recently married wife, Margaret Grenfield, with full ownership of the building and property of Sopwell Priory. Lee continued to serve in Calais, outlining defences and subsequently being appointed Surveyor of the King’s Works. Upon his return to England he was given the grounds and buildings of St. Albans monastery and other former Abbey properties, such as Hexton Manor and Newland Manor. During the next decade Lee acquired more property in the centre of St. Albans and thus became one of the wealthiest men in the town.

1549 saw alterations started on Sopwell Priory to make it comfortable for him and his family to live in. He followed the outlines of the original building whilst taking brick and flint from the Abbey monastery to adapt and extend his new home, named ‘Lee Hall’. In 1555 his wife died leaving him to bring up his two daughters alone for the next 20 years. Upon the marriage of them both Lee set about rebuilding the hall using new foundations and so placing it in roughly the same location. It was built in the shape of an H with two courtyards and a two story-hall. The remains visible today are that of this new building.

Sir Richard died on April 25^th 1575 and is buried in St. Peter’s Church. The house passed through the hands of his descendants for the next 100 years until it was sold to Sir Harbottle Grimston in 1669. He used the house as a quarry for renovations to his nearby favoured house, Gorhambury, and thus the Sopwell fell into a ruinous state, the evidence of which one can see today.

Connections to Boleyn

Rumours have it that Anne Boleyn, the ill fated second wife of Henry VIII, visited Sopwell Priory or was even married there. It is said that Anne was sent to Sopwell to keep her away from court as tensions between her and Catherine of Aragon where high. The priory offered safety and was close enough for Henry VIII to visit which he is reputed to have done in secret. Often this would take place under the cedar tree near St. Stephen’s Church: a location which the King allegedly proposed to Anne. They were married on 25^th January 1533.

A Visit to Sopwell

The front wall of the house is evident when one arrives at the site. The circular window above a previous inside entrance is most obvious. The eye is then drawn to both walls radiating out both north and south. Walking through the entrance leads into the former central hall. Walking south-east from here then reveals the previous position of a staircase, hidden amongst foliage. One gets a real sense of scale when walking around the grounds, bumping into masonry many feet away from the main walls which are still intact. There is an information board on the pavement opposite but I found it rather inadequate to fully understand the ruins.

Getting to the ruins is very easy. They are located just off Cottonmill Lane, St. Albans with parking available on the lane itself.

Sources:

Donald Pelletier – Mysterious Ruins: The Story Of Sopwell Priory St Albans – Impress Print, Corby, Northamptonshire 2002 – ISBN 1 903747 17 1

Inside entrance, leading from a corridor to the central hall.

Looking from inside the central hall north-west. The original outside wall is visible in the top right.

Looking towards the entrance with interior wall visible in foreground.

South east staircase.

Looking north east over the ruins.

Pictures taken 12th July 2008.